During my 18-day journey from Madagascar’s capital Antananarivo to the North and North-East, I had the privilege of discovering one of the most extraordinary places on Earth.

Madagascar is renowned for its unique, endemic wildlife — species that have evolved in complete isolation for millions of years. Once, more than 90% of the world’s fourth-largest island was blanketed in lush rainforest. Today, only about 5% of this pristine forest remains, due to agriculture, illegal logging, and slash-and-burn practices. Countless endangered species are being forced to migrate — or silently disappear — as human expansion continues.

Alongside an already rich array of native fruits and vegetables, settlers have introduced crops from other parts of the world. Today, papaya, jackfruit, coffee, vanilla, and mango grow alongside iconic baobab trees and other native flora. The result is a surprisingly diverse and flavorful cuisine. Rice or potatoes are often served with meat, seafood, and vegetables like carrots and green beans — all seasoned with a generous hand of spices.

Away from tourist hubs, it’s common to attract curious glances. A warm “Salama” and a friendly wave go a long way in breaking the ice. I found the people to be incredibly kind and welcoming — something that deeply impressed me, especially considering that Madagascar is among the poorest countries in the world. In cities, speaking French is helpful, while in more touristic areas, English — and surprisingly, even Italian — is often understood.

Even on the well-known island of Nosy Be, mass tourism feels far away. The local market remains authentic, offering not only souvenirs but also fresh fish, meat, vegetables, fruit, clothing, and more. In many ways, the island feels like a miniature version of Madagascar itself.

If I return — and I hope I do — I’d probably focus more on specific highlights rather than trying to cover so much ground. Although distances might not seem extreme, road conditions can make even a 250 km drive an all-day journey. Giant potholes, wandering animals, and a mix of vehicles keep travel slow and unpredictable. Every now and then, a newly paved road feels like a small miracle. But then again — isn’t that part of the adventure?